Q&A - Jewelry Repairment

In the world of jewelry repair, having the right tools can be crucial. Finding just the right tool to complete both simple and complicated repairs can be easy by taking the time to shop around for function, quality, and price. Generally, the cost of the tool will be dictated by its quality and construction. If budget is a concern, there are many slightly used tools that can be bought for a fraction of the cost of new tools.

Repairing Jewelry

There is something to be said for the side of the jewelry business that involves repairs: It’s difficult, but it can be lucrative. In today’s market, many customers are opting to repair their jewelry rather than buying a new piece. This has created a rise in the need for jewelry repairs. Since a craftsman is only as good as his tools, it’s necessary to have a good supply of tools for the myriad of repair requests that a jeweler has to complete. The proper tools will allow a jeweler to expedite repairs in a concise, efficient manner.

Ring Mandrel

Ring mandrels are used to determine the size of a ring and to gauge the size a ring will be once it has been cut. The metal can then be increased by the precise amount to accommodate a larger size. A sturdy mandrel is important because when sizing a ring, it helps to retain the naturally round shape of a ring by tapping it with a mallet. There are many types of mandrels. They are available in both wood and metal, and some mandrels have a gauge that will allow a jeweler to determine what length of metal stock is needed to make a ring a certain size. The marks on the gauge can also determine exactly how much metal to remove so that the ring can be sized down. It would be wise to purchase several types of mandrels so that all sizing orders can be carried out with precision.

Jewelry Saw

The obvious use for this tool is to saw through metal in joining operations, but there are a few uses for a jewelrysaw that are not as obvious. Very small gaps, which are sometimes less than .01 mm, cannot be soldered easily because the opening is too small. Jewelers can use the saw to remove a small amount of metal to give them an easier channel to apply solder. The saw blade itself can also be used as a very small file. By running the file and sawing at an angle, metal is removed at the surface in very small amounts. The file's frame can be used for a few things besides holding a saw blade. The blade can be replaced with sandpaper that has stiff adhesive backing added to it. The file can then be used as a small sanding stick to get into hard to reach areas. There are many brands of jewelry saws on the market, and they are quite affordable. It is recommended to buy extra blades so that if they break or become dull, there will be another one handy to complete repairs without delay.

Jewelry Torch

The torch is one of the most flexible and versatile tools in jewelry repair. Torches make most jewelry repairs easy. The most obvious use is to apply heat from the torch to solder metal. The heat can also be used in an operation called annealing. Annealing is done after doing a lot of mechanical work to a piece that hardens it. The heat softens the metal and makes it malleable. The heat can also be used to fuse metal. Torches are plentiful in the marketplace, and some come with several types of fittings to accommodate the different types of needed repairs that jewelers must perform.

Beading Tools

A beading tool is a small cylinder of metal with a concave end that allows jewelers to tighten and set bead-set stones. It also enables jewelers to add beading to metal. Beading tools are sold as singular tools, and they are also sold as sets in various sizes. They are necessary tools to complete many of the tasks performed in jewelry repair work.

Pliers

Pliers come in many forms and shapes, and they cover various applications. The most common types are chain nose, round nose, flat nose, and ring-bending pliers. Chain nose pliers have an oval profile, and they are most often used in chain making because their pointed ends allow easy access into small spaces so that the correct amount of force can be applied. Round nose pliers look like two tapered cones that come together. These are great for bending wire and stock into round shapes for making jump rings, bails, and other wire work. Flat nose pliers look like a duck’s bill, and they make it simple to evenly apply force across a straight flat area. Ring bending pliers are very useful for repairing rings that have separated. They can close separated rings for sizing before soldering them together. Another useful tool to have at the bench is a pair of parallel pliers. These pliers have jaws that remain parallel during opening and closing. This is great for holding items or to evenly apply force in one direction. Pliers can be bought separately or in sets. They are economically priced tools that are excellent time savers.

Files and Abrasives

After completing repairs, finishing is always necessary. Finishing is the act of preparing the surface of metal for polishing. Metal must be even and follow the natural lines and curves of the original piece so the repair can seamlessly blend-in. Metal files have varying degrees of coarseness that are called cuts. In the Swiss file grading system, each cut is rated from most to least coarse by the numerical measurements that begin with 00 and end in 8. The numerical measurement of 00 is the coarsest. The 0 and 2 measurements are the grades most often used in jewelry repair. Files also come in various shapes such as flat, round, half-round, knife-edge, barrette, and pillar. The files most often used are flat, barrette, and half-round files; these types cover most shapes experienced in repair work. The standard length for files will vary; the length depends on the application. Hand files are 6 to 8 inches in length, and they are mainly used for bulk work. Needle files are 6 inches in length, and they are much thinner than hand files. Escapement files are the smallest; they measure 4 inches in length with a small filing area. They are most often used for shaping prongs and small pieces of metal. They are also used for finishing filigree work. Abrasives are used to remove filing marks and to produce a more uniform surface. The most common abrasive is sandpaper, which comes in different grits. The grit system refers to the number of abrasive grains within a square inch. If sandpaper is rated as 220 grit, this means that it has 220 abrasive grains in one square inch. Higher numbers indicate smaller grains. Metal is typically finished with 600 to 1000 grit sandpaper before polishing. The sandpaper can also be used to create a surface decoration on metal known as a satin finish.

Jewelry Polishing Lathe

The polishing lathe is an essential piece of equipment for the final step in finishing jewelry after it has been repaired. There are many brands of lathes on the market that have different power levels. Price is usually dictated by the size or the power of the motor. It’s best to look for quality and good construction when deciding on which lathe to purchase. Many of the models include buffs, additional attachments, and compounds included with the purchase of the machine.